Saturday, November 28, 2009
La Vita Dolce
Umm, we are not hiking.
This day will go down in the history as the longest Thanksgiving Day ... ever. We all darted out of bed at 6am packed a backpacks full of random crap = umbrella, extra pair of pants, bathing suits in case we jumped off any cliffs. etc. i then made sure Muffy was upright and we headed out the door with Vig and the girls. Mom decided she would take the day off to rest her swollen ankles and explore the city on her own.
We grabbed the only to-go form of coffee at the Train Station - thank you McDonalds italia. Feeling confident in our travel skills we bought tickets thru the self service machine for a train that was leaving about 30 seconds after our transaction was complete. Awesome. So, we got everything exchanged and had about 20 minutes to chill before the Real train going to La Spezia was ready to depart.
All aboard, we pretty much dog piled on top of each other and tried to sleep the whole 1.5 hours out there. Right off the train we entered the tourist center where we had to get our 5Terre card which had included unlimited train rides and entrance into the park. 5 cities make of Cinque Terre - Monteresso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomagiorre. Amanda had suggested that we go to the very end town first (Monterosso) and then work our way forward. She had done Cinque Terre completely hungover and said it was a miserable experience and if we didnt want to hike (we really didnt feel like re-enacting a Man vs Wild episode) to take the train between towns and save some time. It was about 20 minutes to Monterossa and our excitement began to build as we saw glimpses of the colorful terracotta bricked town and the huge blue ocean.
The salt from the water hits you in the face as soon as you walk out. With no real idea of where we were or what to do we wandered around, took pictures on cliffs, climbed stairs. We stumbled upon a statue of St. Francis - Muffys name saint and had to take a pic of the moment. At the bottom of the statue we found an small open market that had tons of fresh fruit and vegetables, cheese and meats.. Aubs and i had talked about how much we wanted some good fruit and hadnt found any all week. I ate the best apple of my life along the beach and decided to play in the sand while Muffy collected a ton of rocks.
A good 15 lbs of fruit and rocks added to the backpack - brilliant, right? we decided we'd follow the signs to the next town: Ternazza. This all started out a great idea. I mean walking from one town to the other didnt seem like a big deal since we immediately saw signs pointing to Ternazza at the end of the market. Well clarification, by sign I mean someone had written Ternazza with a sharpie on a rock with an arrow. On the map there is probably a solid 2 inches between dots marking each town. Little did we know we'd be spending the next 2 /12 hours in hiking hell. Aubrey, our fearless leader led us the whole way. We went up stairs, We went down stairs, we shimmied around corners that only had a 2 foot wide path, crossed ravines, Muffy and I would burst into these laughing attacks where we would stop for a T.O. time out and stare at Monterosso from a far and laugh histerically at what we what had no gotten into. This entire trip was the opposite of safe and we kept gritting our teeth and saying "oh yeah, we are so not hiking". Karly pulled up the rear most of the way and just about every time we turned around she had a piece of toast in her mouth. She and her brilliance had prepared themselves for a long day on foot and so she made sure she had snacks and rationed the last piece in case this whole operation turned bad and we needed to camp and send smoke signals. I guess it was a good thing i now had a backpack full of fruit and rocks in case we needed to eat or kill for food.
There were 3 highlights to this hike. 1 was a family of cats we found. Someone had left 2 buckets with a printed sign that said in both italian and english "if you happen to stop please feed the unwanted cats" This was probably the most memorable part of Muffys trip. Highlight number 2 was a dog named Jake that found us. This dog and its British owner were playing in a ravine aka when the dog ran by us on these 2 ft paths - wetness all over my legs. Highlight number 3 the mere fact we survived the afternoon. I swear we all thought everytime we'd round a corner a town would be there and instead it was more green or more stairs to climb. Massive disappointment. We made it to Ternazza and had just enough strength left in our legs to make it into the closest restaurant. We feasted. CInque Terre is knowing for its Pesto so both Karly and Muffy got Pesto Trofie - homemade worm looking pasta and amazing pesto sauce. I took over muffys plate and decided to play in pesto - writing her name my name everything. The Chef took a liking to one of my designs and came out and took a picture with us. Exhausted and sore we were beyond excited to hear that the train station was 45 seconds from the restaurant. In the train station we met some 5 girls who were Americans from the east coast that taught English on a military base in Germany. They were going to Florence that night so we gave them some great recomendations for places and made some new friends. Our whole reasoning for going to Cinque Terre was to see a path in the first town called the Tunnel of Love. Shannon, Muffys friend had said it was a Must, that we'd all love and so we had just about 1 1/2 hours before we needed to be back in La Spezia to get the train back to Firenze. We got the local train to Riomaggiore and immediately saw signs for the Tunnel of Love. Everyone should go see this someday - in fact Muffy now swears her wedding will be held here. Grafetti coves every wall with people's names, when they were there. Messages of love, thousands of locks are clipped on the fences.. its just a magical place. It was dark now and we had just enough time as it started to rain to turn around go back to the station and get back to Florence. Our train home took FOOOOREVER. I think part of it was we had been moving constantly since 6am and we were now sitting and absolutely spent. We got home around 8pm and filled Mom in our our day. She spent the day relaxing and shopping. She strolled the streets and read her book and rested her baby tootsies.
I bailed on a shower, while Aubrey and Karly washed all of Cinque Terre off them. Mom Muffy and I went to dinner and got a chance to talk as a family. A deep well needed conversation about our futures and what we are doing with ourselves. We took a stroll after and found a church who had an open organ concert. I think one of the only reasons Moms goes to church is to listen to the organ - so this was such a treat for her. A final cup of gelato and I swear i was going to fall over if i tried to keep my head up any longer. When we got upstairs all i wanted was a hot steamy shower. Of course my luck would have it that ALL the water in Florence had been shut off due to sewage problems. Pissed I washed my face with a bottle of water and passed the f out.
We wake up tomorrow and say Arrivederci to this amazing city
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Where is the effing elevator?
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Boots with the fur?!?!?!
For the Love of PETE!!!
We made it out the hotel about 20 steps and stumbled upon a huge open market right in the square we had dinner the night before. A perfect place for souvenir shopping we knocked out a lot of gifts in one round. The Dreker's found this amazing tent with fresh made sauces jarred for traveling and we all sampled and stocked up. They made the trip back to the hotel room to drop off all our gifts while we stayed in the square and made friends with the civilizians. I played a violin with some street musicians and we goofed around and took pictures. Ready to take on the city, I lead us out the west side over the bridge and directly into St Peter's Basillica. Taking the advice of Erik Schafer we got the audio tour .. but entered on the completely wrong side of the church. Instead of using the audio tour right away we some how got in the line for that takes you to the top...upon that realization we quickly darted out and walked down some other roped off pathway that lead us into the catacombs of the Popes. It was a sight to see - needless to say I think the only Pope anyone knows of is Pope John Paul II. I say this because he had his own special guard and fan club surrounding the tomb with lots of people on their knees praying, saying the rosary, etc. Aubs and I darted across everyone as if we were escaping being caught in a picture and everyone seemed to follow. The majority of the catacombs are just marble tombs, ruins, columns.. nothing too crazy. Nothing like the badass bone designs we saw before. For the record Monks are way cooler than Pope's, just saying.
Monday, November 23, 2009
When in Rome
Getting to Rome was just about as difficult as Romans defeating the Carthaginians in the Punic Wars. Mom and Muffy barely made their flight in Dallas. and by barely i mean i was on the phone with American Airlines tracking them like a Doppler system waiting for the agent to tell me when their tickets got scanned so i knew they made it. I met my favorite frenchman Julien who was going home to Paris at JFK for a bite to eat and to celebrate my excitement that WE ALL were going to finally get to Rome.. Karly and Vig were the first to get in around 12 pm, followed by Aubrey at 2:10 and then me at 2:20. I slept both entire legs of the flight and decided that once i made it that I would wait to surprise Mom and Muffy by waiting for them at baggage claim. This idea i thought would be quite helpful ya know - help them with their luggage... Would of be even awesomer if their luggage had actually made it. After cursing British Airlines for a solid 10 minutes we pulled it together, and got ourselves a shuttle to the hotel. With us was a big couple from Houston who picked a hotel on the outskirts of the city... as our driver said as we dropped them off "Okay, Now we go to Rome..." He was the nicest man offering a full history lesson, scenic tour, dining recommendations, and advice against the gypsys for our trip... along with a few laughs. We finally made it to the hotel around 6pm. Starving we said our hello's and hugs to the Drekers who had been walking around the city for sometime. We dropped - well JUST my bag off - sprayed on a ton of perfume and made our way out the door. The streets are just like you would imagine - small, cobble stone, paths that would murder a pair of Christian Louboutin stelletos in 15 minutes. We found right off the hotel a bakery and winery that had been suggested to us. It being too close and us only having a 3 second taste of the Roman air we walked on and snakes the streets for 10 more minutes..our stomachs grumbling we stopped at the sight of the freshest looking pizza on the planet. Works for me. We kindly asked if we could sit outside to admire to dogs, lavish dressed italian women, and watch everyone walk hand in hand down the street. Our meal in a word - FREEESH. We had bruschetta and split salad with shrimp, margharita pizza and lasagna. You cant help but eat the food slowly to allow each taste bud a fair chance at experiencing the orgasm inside your mouth. it was so simple, the small pizzeria on the street, but a gastronomical experience. We loved it. Our hungry fully satisfied it was time to feed our souls with some Montepulicano wine bought at the winery we passed on the way over. We had them cork the bottle for us (idiots we came to Rome wanting to drink our faces off and forgot to bring a corkscrew.) So bottle corked we stole some plastic cups from the bakery bar and made our way back to the hotel. We greeted the Drekers and shared our bottle in our first toast to a great trip. The night was so beautiful we had talked over dinner about going to see the Trevi Fountain at night. Everyone rallied and we took a stroll up to the Fountain. A bustling Saturday night in Rome is quite the site. Thousands of people fill the street eating, drinking, waiting to get inside the disco's... it felt just like being in New York -- but sexier. We found some great souvenir shops along the way, got great ideas for our friends back home and before we knew it we were gazing at the most marvelous fountain in the world. 1 coin is tossed so that you return to Rome 2 coins are tossed so that you find great love and 3 coins are tossed so that a marriage or divorce is in your immediate future... we each threw in 3. At night the lights cascade across the marble and reflect in the water. Everything looks so serene and crafted so delicately.
The Drekers we on their way to dinner while we Gribaudo's do what we do best: SHOP!! We found great stores, got great ideas and made our way back before the gypsys got to our handbags. Day on in rome a success we went to bed fulfilled.
Sunday
Completely thrown off by time we started our next day a little late. Out the door around 11 we had to start the day with coffee.. Romans do coffee unlike Americans. You'd think Starbucks was on to something making coffee seem so european and exotic. Total crap: the tall, grade, venti rule does not apply here at all. The "caffe" mom ordered was simply a half shot of espresso. Thank heavens we had the water bottle with us to turn it into real coffee. Us girls got a caffe latte which resembled something more to an actual beverage and not 3 melted coffee beans.
With a rough idea of our day we headed north again and stopped to see Trevi by day. Still just as majestic we took a few pictures and continued north. Our goal was to find the Spanish Steps. My friend John Vricella had said some of the best shopping was around this area so we figured why not - when in Rome! We made our way and continued to walk all the way to the top. Along the way we stopped to take pictures from the various heights that overlook the street and city. From the top looking down is an amazing sight. All the locals and tourists walking, mopeds buzzing, and the sun gazing down upon it all.. Johnny V ha said their was a beautiful jewelry shop close by that has some unusual pieces..unusual as in i'd never wear that unless i was 90 years old. We got suckered in by the old lady working the shop who told us her life story and then continued with the life story of her children. Practically family at this point ,we bid farewell and made a B line for the closest restaurant. We literally took over this panini shop. In true form Muffy, Aubrey, Karly and I ordered wine with our sandwiches and ended up spending a good hour and half talking, drinking, siesta-ing if you will. It was such a fun meal and we could tell immediately that we were with the perfect company for this trip.
Trying to plot the rest of our afternoon I realized we were just streets away from the Covento Capuchini that I had so badly wanted to see. The top of this church had remained untouched for 200 years - but beneath was what we were really aftered - the cementary. In the lower crypt of the church was the bones of the monks that had lived there for hundreds of years. It was nothing like anything we had ever seenin our lives. We made our way out and to the Piazza della Republicca which is where the Roman govt would make announcements back in antiquity. Not too impressive we sat on the stairs and had a photo shoot. Our next stop not too far down the way was the Colesseum. We got there right as dusk as the lights went on the and entire night sky turned black. We wandered thru the forum, took pictures of the ruins that had been left for hundreds of years, the column of triumph, the theatre and then made our way back to thehotel. Bags again not arrived, we settled that dispute. We hope they get here in the morning or else 3 free flights are going to be demanded by 3 angry italian women. we went to dinner in the square, had wine, pasta, mussels, and watched performers in the streets spin fire and tap dance - "a lost art" as muffy called it. Everyone made there way back to the hotel but muffy and I continued our jouney wandered the streets with no mission, no obligations, just free spirits. This day was incredible. Filled with laughter and frustration and food and wine and haaaandsome men :)
Tomorrow we attack Vatican City for one final day in the homeland.
Friday, November 20, 2009
I hate you Murphy and your stinkin LAW :o(
Muffy got her passport all of 10 days ago. Aubrey just about gave some lucky passenger free will to her life savings by hoping in our cab Wednesday morning. Zion and his allergies have resurfaced and gone apecrazy. My flight gets cancelled and has been cancelled since May 30th completely unbenounced to me. Aaaand Muffy is eating pain pills every free chance she gets in order to keep her tooth from exploding. Needless to say we are not off to a good start and it has us all a bit freaked out that all these problems are happening (but being resolved) mere DAYS before the trip. I cant exactly tell which way the signs are pointing? Are we just not supposed to go? Aubs and I have both packed stuffed animals to make us feel less alone as we are now departing on different flights in and and out of two different cities.. all to wind up in Rome 5 minutes apart.
WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN?!?!?
My only hope is that we are all supposed to experience something different. Maybe Aubs will be sitting next to her husband. Maybe I will actually read a book rather than bugging Aubrey the whole flight. Maybe we both can figure out what the hell we are doing with our lives in the 9 hours we have.... ehh, who are we kidding probably both gonna get a glass of crappy $8 wine and pass out. true story.
Just about time to go to the airport and play my favorite game "Cathy vs Plane : 156th times a charm"
See you in Roma my loves!